The history of the tie: how it became a male style icon
The tie is undoubtedly one of the most representative symbols of male style.
It has an ancient and fascinating history, characterised by changes, innovations and traditions.
This accessory has been transformed over time, yet its essence and charm have remained unchanged.
In this article, we delve into the history of the tie, to understand how it became the undisputed icon of men’s style.
Ancient origins: a journey from the Roman Empire
The tie, a universal symbol of elegance and formality, has historical roots going back centuries.
If we travel back through the tunnel of time, we reach the Roman Empire, a civilisation known for its influence on fashion and style that still fascinates us today.
During the Roman Empire, particularly among soldiers, it was customary to wear a piece of cloth around the neck, known as a ‘focal‘.
This handkerchief had a very practical purpose: it was used to wipe sweat from the face during long and tiring battles. Given the scorching heat of the regions in which the Romans often fought, this piece of cloth was an indispensable component of military equipment.
The focal piece, however, was not only a functional accessory. It also had a strong symbolic meaning within the Roman military hierarchy. Not all soldiers had the honour of wearing a focal. Only the most valiant, those who distinguished themselves by their courage and skill in battle, were rewarded with this badge.
Consequently, the focal became a sign of recognition and respect, a symbol of social status within the Roman army.
Although the use of the focal disappeared with the fall of the Roman Empire, the idea of wearing a piece of cloth around the neck did not disappear. Over the centuries, the use of handkerchiefs or pieces of cloth around the neck has been found in different cultures and historical periods. Often, as in the case of the focal, these accessories had both a practical and symbolic value.
The tie and the Thirty Years’ War: the birth of an icon
While the Roman ‘focal’ may be considered a distant relative of the tie, the true ancestor of this sophisticated accessory made its appearance in a very different context, during a tumultuous historical period: the Thirty Years’ War in the 17th century.
Croatian mercenaries and the Cravat
During this war, a particular division of the army, Croatian mercenaries, were hired to fight in the service of France. These soldiers wore a particular accessory: a silk kerchief tied around their necks with a distinctive knot, called a ‘cravat‘. This ‘cravat’ had a dual function: on the one hand, it protected the soldier’s neck from the weather, and in particular the cold, which could affect their vocal cords and thus their ability to communicate clearly during battle. On the other, the ‘cravat’ became an emblem of their courage and identity.
Louis XIV and the adoption of the Cravat
The accessory caught the attention of Louis XIV, the young king of France, known for his interest in fashion and style. Fascinated by the practicality and elegance of the ‘cravat’, he decided to adopt it as part of the official attire of the French court. In this way, the ‘cravat’ became a trendy item among the nobility and the bourgeoisie, beginning its transformation into what we recognise today as the modern tie.
Louis XIV’s gesture was not only a fashion decision, but also had a profound political implication. By adopting an element of the clothing of Croatian mercenaries, the king showed his appreciation and respect for these brave soldiers, while at the same time strengthening the ties between France and Croatia.
The passing of the ‘cravat’ from the front lines to the French court marks a turning point in the history of the tie. From a functional and symbolic object, it became a fashion accessory, destined to become an icon of men’s style throughout the world.
The tie in Victorian society
The 19th century, known as the Victorian era, was a period of great social and cultural change. During this time, the tie established itself as a fundamental element in the male wardrobe, assuming a central role as a symbol of social status, refinement and distinction.
The tie as a symbol of status and refinement
In Victorian society, the tie was more than just an accessory. It was a visible sign of belonging to a particular social class and, in some cases, indicated an individual’s level of education. The ability to choose and wear an appropriate tie was seen as a demonstration of good taste and refinement. Those who wore a high-quality tie showed their social status and position in society.
The importance attached to the tie in Victorian society has left an indelible mark on the way we still see this accessory today.
Many of the norms and traditions associated with the wearing of the tie have their roots in this era.
For example, the idea that ties should be worn on particular formal occasions, or the association of specific colours with certain circumstances, are concepts that date back to the Victorian era. This historical period contributed significantly to elevating the tie from a simple piece of fabric to a key element of men’s attire and a symbol of style, respect and distinction.
Evolution in the 20th century: new styles, colours and fabrics
The 20th century marked an era of innovation and radical change in many areas of life, and fashion was no exception. The tie, which had already spanned centuries of history, underwent further evolutions that shaped the accessory as we know it today.
Tie design began to become more varied and dynamic in the 20th century.
It became shorter and wider than previous models, reflecting the fashion trends of the time. In addition, the use of different colours and fabrics became more popular. This diversity allowed the tie to adapt to a wide range of occasions and personal styles, making it an even more versatile accessory.
In addition, different types of knots were introduced during this period.
These ranged from the simple four-in-hand knot, to the more complicated Windsor. These different knots offered the possibility to further customise the appearance of the tie, allowing each individual to express his or her individuality and sense of style.
Jesse Langsdorf’s patent
One of the key moments in the evolution of the tie in the 20th century was the patenting of the modern design by Jesse Langsdorf in 1924.
This revolutionary design involved cutting the fabric into three parts – the sheath, the interlining and the knot – which were then sewn together. This approach prevented the tie from twisting and kept its shape even after prolonged use.
The genius of Langsdorf’s design lies in its simplicity and functionality. Although it may seem like a small change at first, this innovation had a huge impact on the comfort and usability of the tie.
In fact, Langsdorf’s design is so effective that it is still used in tie manufacturing more than a century later.
The tie today
Today, the tie is considered an essential accessory in a man’s wardrobe. It is a symbol of elegance and professionalism, often worn on formal occasions and in the business world. At the same time, the tie has evolved into different variants, such as slim ties, bow ties and bow ties, allowing people to express their personal style.
The tie as a symbol of style and professionalism
Besides being a practical accessory, the tie is a powerful tool for non-verbal communication.
A carefully chosen tie can convey an image of confidence, competence and sophistication. For example, a tie with a solid colour or discreet design is generally preferred in formal or business contexts. Conversely, a tie with a bold design or bright colours may be a way to express one’s personality on less formal occasions.
Tips for choosing and matching a tie
Choosing the right tie may seem like a difficult task, but there are a few tips that can simplify the choice.
First of all, consider the occasion. For a formal event, opt for a dark or neutral coloured tie. For a more casual occasion, feel free to choose a tie with a bolder pattern or bright colours.
Secondly, think about the combination with the rest of your outfit. The tie should coordinate with your shirt and jacket. A general rule is that the tie should be darker than the shirt.
Finally, consider the material of the tie. Silk ties are considered the most elegant and are suitable for most occasions. Wool or cotton ties, on the other hand, are more casual and are more suitable for everyday wear.
Conclusions
The tie has had a long and fascinating history, evolving from a simple piece of cloth worn by Roman soldiers to one of the most iconic symbols of male style. Besides being a practical accessory, the tie is a powerful tool for personal and professional expression.
Today, with a wide range of styles, colours and fabrics to choose from, there is a tie for every man and every occasion. Regardless of the style you choose, remember that the tie you wear says a lot about you and your company.
Custom-made ties from Seterie Mosconi are the ideal solution for companies that wish to give their employees a touch of elegance and professionalism. Thanks to the quality of the materials used and the possibility of customising every detail of the ties, from the fabric to the colour, right down to the company logo, guarantees a made-to-measure and unique product that is representative of your brand and reflects the values of your company.
So, choose your tie carefully and wear it with pride!
